A Year at Charlie One Oh Two

**Updates to this post in the comment section below**

One fuzzy photo is all we've got to commemorate our first year in Seoul. Happy anniversary to us! 

Today was much like every other, with one notable exception- Jensie and Asher took their first city bus ride...alone. Don't worry, it's quite safe. In fact, they shared the bus with a few of their classmates who get home the same way. Still, I worried. Even after I'd given them permission and we'd reviewed every step they'd take --wait for the green bus, scan your T-money card, press the red button, ask the driver to wait, listen carefully for the name of our stop--I worried. I walked to the school and hid around the corner of a convenience store to watch them board. Jensie spotted me and and walked over with a smile.

"Mom," she said confidently, "we got this."

The year has had its ups and downs. We'd hoped to fully immerse ourselves in Korean culture but that's hard to do from our apartment in "Little America." It's like we're only half here. The kids are struggling in school. They read and speak Hangul pretty well, but Jensie is behind in math and Asher's often bullied. Frankie still asks to go "home to Georgia" every single night. 

We met with Asher's teachers last week. He broke down in class and told her he hates Korea. He scribbles on his desk, refuses to take tests, and regularly loses his homework (not to mention his shoes). Once he failed to show up for class. 

I took Asher on a long walk to talk about it all. We talked about the good things we have, but I also let him vent a while. He likes his teacher but hates how she worries about his homework "like it's a big deal or something." He's afraid North Korea will attack and often has nightmares of them invading. He doesn't like the seaweed in kimchi soup. Why do people have to eat little fish bones in his face? It's making him crazy. Mostly, he despises the "black parts of the Korean flag. That color is ugly." 

"Do you want to know why the American flag is better?" he asked.

"Sure," I said.

"Because the red and white stripes and the blue, well, it's just, 50 stars. One for each state. No more, no less." That's why.

We've started a new homework routine with each of the kids. Jensie's involves more math. Tears abound. We've increased the tutor's hours and scratched plans for weekend getaways. After a recent session with Jensie's private tutor, the tutor told us tactfully, "I think maybe she doesn't pay attention."

That night in bed as Nate and I talked this over he chuckled and shrugged "I guess we over-estimated them this year," he said. "I thought they'd go to school and learn some sh*t." Funny. Sort of.

It hasn't been all bad though. Our children are bilingual, whether they want to be or not. We have access to an unlimited supply of Angry Birds, Hello Kitty, and Pororo goods, which the kids buy up with their modeling money. Oh yes, they are professional models here. 

Frankie took a field trip to the COEX Aquarium yesterday. The sharks left her spellbound. 

Natalie finished up high school with a bang. 4.2 GPA, All-American cheerleader, starting forward on the varsity soccer team, "Best Dressed", a cute boyfriend, and a pocket full of "sticky pictures." Before she left we talked about how we've both become kimchi snobs. We moved here loving cabbage kimchi but have moved on to tastier raddish and cucumber varieties. 

Holly has come to stay in her place. People say we look alike. I am so flattered. She does the dishes without being asked. Tomorrow she auditions for two of Korea's most prestigious ballet companies. She and Jensie go to Zumba together.

I'm still crazy about the man who's been my husband for 10 years. Nate likes his job and does it well. We get a lot of time together. We go on dates most Fridays. Last week he took me out and let me order some bread, and an anchovy pizza, and more bread. M'mmm gluten.

When the weighty cement and smog of the city are too heavy to bear, we head for the hills. Namsan tower's become Nate's "happy place." We've spent chilly nights in Yongin Forest where we've climbed into sleeping bags warmed with hot water bottles after gorging on Nate's delicious camping cooking. Thoughtful Korean rangers check in from time to time asking if we're warm enough. We are the only campers without electric space heaters. We are crazy Americans.

Monsoon rains fall often but we all have umbrellas. The children haven't lost their galoshes and I still have my Crocs.

Yes, some things are bad. But mostly things are wonderful.

We got this.